Lime LaCroix Soap Projecthttps://www.brambleberry.com/in-the-studio/projects/cold-process/lime-lacroix-soap-project/PS000115.html
This Lime LaCroix Soap features an in-the-pot swirl. It's scented with Lime Fragrance Oil, so the bars smell bright and fruity.
This Lime LaCroix Soap is a more abstract interpretation than the Grapefruit LaCroix Soap Project. Rather than trying to recreate the can, the Lime LaCroix inspired the colors for an in-the-pot swirl. It's scented with Lime Fragrance Oil.
LaCroix doesn’t contain any alcohol, so it doesn’t need to be boiled prior to using it in soap. It also doesn’t contain sugar, so you don’t need to worry about the lye scorching or the soap overheating. Does the LaCroix add any real skin benefits to the soap? No, not really. But it’s fun from a label standpoint, and it’s the perfect gift for any LaCroix lover.
Interestingly, the lime LaCroix behaved better in soap than the grapefruit LaCroix. We found that the grapefruit LaCroix became a little grainy, while this soap stayed nice and smooth during the entire process. Just a heads up that the performance of LaCroix in soap may vary flavor to flavor.
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Lime LaCroix Soap Project
This project features an in-the-pot swirl. It's scented with Lime Fragrance Oil, so the bars smell bright and fruity.
9 Cube Soap Silicone Mold
33 oz. Swirl Quick Mix
4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
10.9 oz. Flat Lime LaCroix
2.4 oz. Lime Fragrance Oil
1/2 tsp. Blue Slushy Mica
1 tsp. Kermit Green Mica
1/2 tsp. Hydrated Chrome Green Colorant
1/2 tsp. Aqua Pearl Mica
1/2 tsp. Titanium Dioxide
LACROIX PREP (1-2 days before): Open a can of Lime LaCroix and allow it to sit out for 1-2 days to get rid of carbonation. The best way to test if the LaCroix is flat is to taste it. Once it no longer contains carbonation and you’re ready to make soap, pour 10.9 ounces into a lye safe container.
COLOR PREP: In separate containers, disperse 1/2 teaspoon of titanium dioxide, Aqua Pearl Mica, Hydrated Chrome Green Pigment, and Slushy Blue Mica into 1/2 tablespoon of sunflower oil or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). In a separate container, disperse 1 teaspoon Kermit Green Mica into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of clumps.
OPTIONAL: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. To micronize the colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend it. That breaks up any clumps of color and prevents streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning.
FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2.4 ounces of Lime Fragrance Oil into a glass container. Set aside.
SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
Slowly and carefully add 4.6 ounces of lye to 10.9 ounces of LaCroix and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons of sodium lactate.
Fully melt the entire bag of Swirl Quick Mix until it’s completely clear. Shake the bag to mix up all the oils. Measure 33 ounces into a large heat-safe container. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130° F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend the mixture to a thin trace.
Pour 200 mL of the soap into 2 separate containers. Then pour 400 mL of soap into another container. Add the following amounts of dispersed colorants to each container of soap and use a whisk to incorporate.
Add the Lime Fragrance Oil proportionally to each container (it’s okay to eyeball it) and use a whisk to mix it in thoroughly. The soap should be thin enough to pour but thick enough so the colors don’t muddle when mixed together. If the soap is extremely thin, give it a few pulses with the stick blender to slightly thicken.
Pour all of the light blue soap into the bowl of light green soap, concentrating it on one side. Pour from various heights above the bowl to distribute the blue soap throughout the green soap in the bowl.
Pour all of the aqua soap into the large bowl, concentrating it on the other side of the bowl. Pour from various heights above the bowl to distribute the aqua throughout the green soap in the bowl.
Finally, pour all of the darker green soap into the bowl at various heights. Concentrate it in the center of the bowl.
Pour the soap directly into each cube cavity. We slightly overfilled our molds, so one was not completely full (see below). Fill them slightly less than we did to avoid a short bar.
Once all the cavities are full, tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles. Spritz the top with alcohol to prevent soda ash. Cover the mold with a cutting board or other flat surface for 24 hours.
Allow the soap to stay in the mold for another 2-3 days. Soap needs to stay in this mold a little longer than most. See if you can pull the sides of the mold away from the soap. If the sides do not easily pull away, give it another day or two. Pull the sides away to release the airlock and give the soap one more day to stay in the mold. At this point, gently push the soap from the bottom to see if they release. If the bottom feels soft, you can wait another few days, or place the soap in the freezer for about 3 hours. This helps harden the soap enough to push it out from the bottom. Once the soap is out of the mold, allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.
Photographer: Amanda Kerzman, Kayla Ratliff
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