The oil phase in lotion making can make or break your recipe. It typically runs between 8 and 23% of your total formula. The other lotion and body butter supplies you will need include distilled water, emulsifiers, and a preservative. Your choice of oils within this phase opens the door to many different textures, from lightweight daily lotions to rich overnight body butters.
A higher ratio of water creates a lighter, faster-absorbing lotion, while the type and amount of oils also influence how rich or lightweight it feels. Increasing your butters and waxes will result in a thick and slow-absorbing body butter. Start with a liquid oil at around 15% and adjust from there. Depending on your product's purpose, you will want a higher or lower ratio of liquid oils.
The oil you choose also affects scent throw and retention. Heavier oils like castor oil can dampen fragrance throw, while lighter carrier oils allow lotion fragrance oils to perform at full strength. For better scent retention, reach for jojoba or sweet almond oil as your base.
If you want to slow oxidation in the oil phase and extend shelf life, add Vitamin E at 0.5 to 1% of your total batch weight. It is an antioxidant that keeps your oils from going rancid. Store your finished lotion away from heat and direct light, and use it within 6 to 12 months.
Best Oils for Body Lotion
- Sweet almond oil: Lightweight and versatile, with a full year of shelf life. It is non-comedogenic, meaning it is unlikely to clog pores.
- Jojoba oil: Has an exceptionally long shelf life, absorbs quickly, and leaves no greasy residue. A perfect choice for everyday lotions and a reliable base for scent retention. It blends well with both fragrance oils and essential oils without altering their scent profile.
- Avocado oil: Richer and slower to absorb into the skin. A better fit for nighttime or winter formulas than for everyday lotions. It works well at 10 to 20% of your oil phase and pairs with heavier butters like shea or mango for deeply moisturizing recipes.
- Fractionated coconut oil: A clear, neutral base that won't compete with your lotion essential oils or colorants. It absorbs quickly and so doesn't leave an oily feeling. Unlike regular coconut oil, it stays liquid at room temperature, which makes it easier to work with year-round.
Preservatives for Body Butter versus Everyday Lotion
When you are making body butter, you skip the water phase. This means you do not need an emulsifier, and in most cases, you do not need a preservative. The exception is if you add any water-based ingredients, such as aloe vera or a hydrosol. These introduce the conditions for bacteria to grow and require a preservative. You should also use a preservative if the product will be used in an environment where water could get into the container, such as in the shower. Water introduced during use can encourage mold and bacteria growth, especially in jars or wide-mouth containers. Squeeze bottles are less susceptible because they reduce the chance of water getting inside.
Do I need oil in my DIY lotion recipe?
Skipping the oil phase is not an option if you want a true lotion. Oil is what gives your formula its texture and moisturizing properties. Water and emulsifiers alone will not get you there.
Can I substitute a different oil in a lotion recipe and still get the same result?
The short answer is yes, but your formula will not behave exactly the same way. Swapping oils affects absorption speed, scent profile, and overall shelf life. When swapping, look for an oil with a similar absorbency rate to keep the texture close to the original recipe.
What is the soaping effect in lotion making?
If your lotion goes on white and streaky and feels like soap on your skin, you are dealing with the soaping effect. The culprit is usually air trapped in the formula during blending. Blend for 60 to 90 seconds, then finish with hand stirring to keep air out of the mix.
What happens if I add too much oil to my lotion recipe?
Your lotion will likely separate in the bottle and feel heavy or muddy when applied. Staying between 8 and 23% for your oil phase gives you the most reliable results. When in doubt, start low and test small batches before scaling up.
Should I make a fast or slow-absorbing lotion?
It comes down to what the lotion is for. Daytime formulas work best with fast-absorbing oils like jojoba or sweet almond because they do not leave a greasy finish. For overnight use or dry winter skin, a slow-absorbing oil like avocado gives you richer, longer-lasting coverage.